Reluctance to Get Up Is Not Healthy For Pigs
Noticing that your pig is reluctant to get up, especially if it’s feeding time, is a cause for concern. Your pig may be experiencing joint pain from an injury or a bacterial muscle infection, such as one of the Clostridial diseases. Clostridial diseases arise from bacteria that are found everywhere in the environment. They include diseases such as tetanus, blackleg, black disease, pulpy kidney, botulism, and malignant oedema.
Symptoms of clostridial diseases include swollen muscles, lethargy or listlessness, red rashes, stiff legs, severe lameness, paralyzed tongues, and other muscle and functional issues. Pigs may also have diarrhea that’s blood-tinged.
A few symptoms you will notice are:
- Swollen muscles
- Lethargy
- Red rash on the skin
Steps to Take if Your Pig Doesn’t Want to Get Up
If you suspect a Clostridial disease, it’s critical that you call your vet and get your pig tested. Your pig will need penicillin for about a month and will need anti-inflammatory drugs to help reduce the painful swelling of its muscles. Pigs should be encouraged to move around, which will facilitate healing. It can be a bit of work to get your pig back up to normal, but if you don’t, it can face paralysis and death.
- Test your pig for Clostridial disease through your vet
- Administer Penicillin for about 3 to 4 weeks.
- Anti-inflammatory drugs to reduce the swelling of the muscles.
- Gentle walking promotes blood flow.
- Moving your pig to a pen with sand or sawdust shaving flooring can also help exercise and loosen the muscles.
My Most Used Pig Supplies
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Purina Pig Chow will last well (or Mazuri is popular, but I haven’t tried it), and the stainless steel non-skid bowls that will help keep the mess down.
A pig blanket to keep her warm. This one also has bright colors and helps to provide rooting without the destruction.
Pig Harness for walking and handling your pig. There are a lot to choose from, but this one is pretty easy to use. If you want one that has a separate leash, this looks like a good one.
A large crate for keeping her safe in your house at night and when you leave the house. This is essential. You’ll also want a litterbox, and I like mine with a lid for nighttime. Pine shavings are best, and you may be able to find them in larger quantities locally.
When you have accidents, Odoban will help eliminate odors. When you are potty training, these floor pads work great for keeping your house clean while training her to go in certain places.
You’ll also want an outdoor house to keep her warm when she gets outside time, an essential part of her development.
Dewormer- Ivermectin is the primary dewormer I use, although I do rotate with a non-ivermect ingredient once so that the worms don’t get immune to it.